Which means that if you're keeping up with the shows, you have no excuse not to make time to check out at least a few of the designers making the brave decision to show for the first time. In several cases, they're names you may already know, thanks to early red carpet placements. In other cases, they're names you're going to want to learn quick. And in a few cases, they're names you'll forget just as quickly (it's sad but true).
From alumni of Prada and Oscar de la Renta, to a designer returning to fashion after a long hiatus, to a well-known Instagram star, read on for 16 labels about to make their New York Fashion Week debuts (in the order in which they'll show).
Warm is a cute, under-the-radar multi-brand boutique in New York's Nolita neighborhood, and its presence on the NYFW schedule marks the launch of a new wholesale line and the return of Tracy Feith, who has been tapped to design it. Feith, you may recall, used to have a namesake clothing line that landed a collaboration with Target and was worn by Michelle Obama. Itshuttered in 2010. Now, he's back. RHIÉRie Yamagato launched her line in 2011 after studying at both Parsons and Central Saint Martins (where she earned a B.A.) as well as working for Tsumori Chisato and Phillip Lim. Rhié began as a knitwear capsule and is now a full women's ready-to-wear line encompassing knit separates, dresses and outerwear — all wearable, modern and a tad subversive.
Warm is not the only difficult-to-Google new name on the calendar. This season, Colombian-born designer Carlos Polite collaborated with style star Michelle Violy Harper on three looks. With a distinctive, bold aesthetic and the support of a street style mainstay, Polite has all the ingredients for NYFW success.
Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk launched Area in 2013 after meeting at Parsons. The designers manipulate textiles to make them their own, resulting in clothes that have a modern, minimalist feel, with an off-kilter edge. They show this Thursday as part of Made Fashion Week.
Launched by Paper Denim & Cloth founder Alex Gilbert and former Prada womenswear director Jennifer Noyes, new women’s ready-to-wear label M.Martin is all about updating the classic American sportswear aesthetic for a new generation. Think timeless wardrobe staples like denim jackets and sweaters, done in new and interesting ways. The brand will make its NYFW debut this Thursday.
Jonathan Cohen launched his line in 2011 after graduating from Parsons and doing stints at Doo.Ri Chung, Ashleigh Verrier and Oscar de la Renta, where he apprenticed. The women's luxury line includes day and evening wear, and marries classic construction with experimentation — with color, prints and cuts. Celebrity stylist Micaela Erlanger told us she's a fan and has already put her client Lupita Nyong'o in the line. Cohen makes his NYFW debut on Friday.
One of this week's most highly anticipated debuts is that of Brandon Maxwell, stylist to none other than Lady Gaga, who will show his first collection ever on Monday. He's credited with taking the pop star in a more elegant direction, so expect the collection to be filled with timeless glamour.
In my mind at least, Pamplemousse has always just been the most amusing word ever uttered in an eighth grade French class (it means grapefruit) — until now, that is. Danica Zheng, a Chinese designer raised in Singapore, launched the line this year after studying at Parsons and working for Calvin Klein collection. Her debut resort collection had a feminine, effortless-chic thing going on and we're excited to see what she does next on Tuesday.
THE FAT JEWISH
You know him from Instagram, White Girl Rosé and come next Wednesday, "dad fashion," according to the invitation for his NYFW debut. We're not sure what that means, but we'll soon find out.
Homepage photo: Brian Ach/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
This post was updated to remove designer Xiao Li, as he is no longer planning to show, and to add designer Jonathan Cohen.